The Old Quarter (developed approximatively within the old fortress walls) used to be inhabited by many merchants that sold their stuff in the many small shops, as well as in the large inns of the time (such as Șerban Vodă Inn, demolished before they built the National Bank a.o.). When the Communists came to power, they sent some of the merchants to prison for simply being, acting (or talking) against the regime. Some others left the country, while the rest were expropriated, respectively evicted out of their own houses. The best means the Communist regime found to fight the accusing historic heritage that remained beyond these people was to host the homeless and wandering in these houses without doing anything to even attempt to have these people integrated in the society first. This was the beginning of the quarter’s desolation. AD 1989 came and went by; following over 10 years of useless debate within the City Hall, work (chaotically at first) began on infrastructure in the area. Some of the both legal and illegal occupants were evicted, as inheritors of the former owners got their property back and either wanted to turn it into profitable business or decided to sell it. Many of the buildings began to be restored and quite a lot of them were turned into bars, fashion or souvenir shops and restaurants. Together with a Spanish contractor, the City Hall started replacing the once great cobblestone that only needed polishing, with dull, sterile concrete biscuits, respectively the old bulbs with street lights that could not fit less the buildings or the area. But it was a start and nobody could ever presume it was to be a simple, fast, appropriate and efficient one. After all, there is no way Bucharest’s old quarter (just like Sibiu’s three central squares or Brașov’s much adulated Piața Sfatului or Republicii Street) could escape the European Cardboard and Plaster Game recipe of standard terrace-filled pedestrian streets, typical - yet so dum - beer umbrellas and those de rigueur gas heaters.

The real problem emerged in early 2009, when all works came to a halt due to the winding roads of the City Hall and some issues regarding teh contracted works. Therefore, at that point, entire streets such as Gabroveni, Pasajul Francez or Lipscani were first stripped of their old cobblestone pavement and then nothing else happened for more than half a year. Well, actually what happened was that pedestrians needed walk along wood plank, rudimentary, otherwise pretty poor bridges set across and along these streets, some half a meter to one meter from the barren ground. Unique in Europe (and pretty much of this world except parts of Kathmandu and Lahore), it was; but I have to say I loved it. Rehabilitation works started again in the fall of 2009, with all streets being completed by now. In about half the situations though, the biscuit scheme was not carried out due to contractual issues, and better looking (personal opinion) cobblestone was used instead of prefabricated pieces. As of 2014, there are still several old buildings which are under restoration (especially down the Lipscani and Pasajul Francez), while a few new buildings - more or less matching the period style (see the dum addition hosting a H&M store down the Lipscani) - are being erected on the blank spots. The Old Town of Bucharest has turned in a very busy dining and drinking place. As for a quiet visit to take in the architecture and history of the place, I recommend doing that in the morning, especially in summer time.

Here are some pictures shot in 2008, 2009, 2011 and later on. So as to make it more interesting (I hope), for the pre-2011 part, I have alternated pictures of buildings and of undergoing works. Enjoy!