End September (usually the last week) and all October see various harvest fairs and events as well as rich, colourful marketplaces in Bucharest. At the same time, pastry shops sell a mind blowing, tasty pumpkin pie. Yet this period remains the mustărie month. It is the time of the year when some traditional restaurants (not those of the fancy kind) turn their terraces or halls into rustic taverns where the main product promoted is the grape must. The must stands for the freshly squeezed grape juice which is of dark red or purple colour. It is a bit thicker than wine and - unlike wine again - it is opaque. Some people add sugar to prevent it from fermenting and turning into wine, so that it can last longer; even so, it has to be stored in a cool place. While there exists both white and red grape must, the red one is the local favourite by far. Traditionally, Romanians drink a lot of grape must in October, as its fresh fragrance and sweetness create a locally appreciated combination; do not forget that Romanians also prefer half sweet or all the way sweet wines to dry ones. The must is usually served alone, just like beer, but it can also be joined by mutton pastrami or dry meats, polenta and pickles, with bell peppers being a top pick. A respectable mustărie will serve must cool, from a special clay pot and using not glasses, but clay cups; that keeps it cool and maintains the acidulated, fresh taste. Do not be tricked by its sweet, pleasant taste and do not have more than 2-3 cups of it however, as it can cause stomach troubles due to its unfermented state.
The grape must tradition developed together with wine making in both Moldavia and Wallachia. 19th century Bucharest used to be surrounded by vineyards which stretched where nowadays districts like Pantelimon, Colentina or Tunari lie. The last week of September used to see the harvest and the adjoining feast called the ‘Cârstovul viilor’. During this feast, both the grape must and the ‘tulburel’ (fresh, unsettled wine) were sold directly from the vineyard, together with associated meats and other foodstuffs. Everything used to happen in shelters made of reed next to the vineyards, where large tables filled with mutton pastrami, mici, dry mutton sausages, large pots of tripe soup, the grape press and barrels of plum brandy co-existed. Famous period mustăries next to Bucharest included the Trei Lulele (in nowadays Grozăvești District) or Zor de Zi (in the current University Square, on the site of the National Theatre), while up in Moldavia, just off Iași there was the Trei Sarmale (still existing as an inn with a great traditional restaurant). When the vineyards disappeared, being replaced by city districts, restaurants continued the mustărie tradition, bringing the grapes from distant vineyards and preparing the must on spot. The reed structures are no longer there, but every respectable mustărie has a lot of reed to decorate it or cover its fences and walls.
In South Romania, especially in the Danubian plains, people still make what they call ‘caș de must’ (En. ‘grape must cheese’) and the Greeks call ‘moustalevria’: they heat up the must in a pot, add flour, sugar, vanilla and minced walnuts. When it all becomes thick like marmalade, the pudding-like thing is topped with cinnamon and placed in the fridge. It should be served cold. However, I remember that in our situation, it never got to the fridge stage, we used to eat it while hot or - in the best case - a bit cool when I was a child in my mother’s village in Teleorman County (SW of Bucharest). Back then, the caș de must was one of my favourite sweets and it would still be should I start cooking it. In Turkey, Armenia or Georgia the sujuk (a sort of candy) is also based on the grape must.
While the grape must is definitely not something unique to Romania, this is an interesting tradition. Therefore, if you happen to be in Bucharest during the end of September and October, pop in one of the mustăries and get ready for a long chat with the locals over a few (careful on their number though) cups of must. A few centrally-located places which turn into mustăries in autumn include the recently reopened Hanul lui Manuc, the Caru’ cu Bere and the Terasa Blanduziei. Restaurant chains like La Mama and City Grill also have it, but they are not among my recommended places; the same goes for the Terasa Doamnei. If you’d rather buy the must and have it privately or try to cook the caș de must on the camping stove at your 5* hotel, you can buy it from the Vinul Nostru folks. Mind you the grape must does not travel at all. Once it reaches 15-20C, it ferments in less than an hour and it will do your hair and Italian suit as soon as you open the bottle.
GPS - Terasa Blanduziei N44 26.034 E26 05.989 GPS
GPS - Hanul lui Manuc - N44 25.46 E26 06.07
GPS - Caru’ cu Bere - N44 25.916 E26 05.896
GPS - Vinul Nostru - N44 45.60079 E26 069473
