As one can read more in depth in the dedicated section (under “Society”), Jews have played an important part in the history and development of Bucharest. Therefore, even after a not at all friendly period, one can still experience the legacy they created.


The Jewish Quarter. The Jews in Wallachia came especially from South-Eastern Europe and the Ottoman Empire; this is about the Sephardic Jews that had been thrown out of Spain and Portugal in the 15th century. Bucharest started to develop in the 17th century and the Jews South of the Danube, especially in Nikopole (Bulgarian town on the Danube), which belonged mainly to the Sephardic confession, crossed the river, settling intense trading activities in this city. The same period saw the coming of the Ashkenazim Jews from Ukraine and Poland. Involved mostly in trade and crafts, Jews developed a strong community in Bucharest. In 1912 there were 44,000 Jews in Bucharest, in 1921 their number rose to 70,000, it got to 98,000 in 1941, reached the peak of 150,000 after WW2, in 1948, just to fall afterwards to 15,000 in 1966, respectively 4,000 nowadays. The heritage of the Jewish community in Bucharest is still impressive, given the fact that an extensive part of the former Jewish quarter was demolished during the communist regime and most of the Jews left to Israel or the USA.


Given the extensive Jewish population in Bucharest, this quarter used to be quite large. Starting at nowadays Piața Unirii, it used to go all the way to Dristor Quarter (Dristor metro station area nowadays). Dudești, Vitan, Nerva Traian and their whereabouts, all these avenues hosted many Jews. A part of their heritage was demolished, together with churches, residences and other historic monuments during the mad 1980s, as President Ceaușescu wanted to develop his crazy urban systematization project. Also given Jews' living the country to Israel, most of the colourful soul of the area has disappeared. It is still interesting, however, to walk along nowadays nearly abandoned streets SE of Unirea Square, or to attend an excellent performance at the Jewish Theatre, featuring Maia Morgenstern or Rudy Rosenfeld (performances are held in Yiddish, always translated in Romanian through earphones). GPS - N44 25.759 E26 06.623


The Holy Union Temple (Ahdut Kodesh) was built in 1850 by the Jewish Tailors’ Guild of Bucharest. The structure is sustained by steel columns and the facade is decorated with alternative layers of bricks and white plaster. The whole composition gathers Moorish, Romanesque and Byzantine elements, with obvious influences from the religious and laic Wallachian architecture. Nowadays the temple hosts the Jewish History Museum (tel.: (021)3110870, open 09.00-13.00, closed on Fridays, Saturdays and Mondays; ring the bell on the gate and wait for someone to come open it, have your ID or passport in hand), exhibiting proof of the once large Jewish community existence, as well as a memorial for the deportation and extermination years. Those interested in the study of the Jewish community even further can go to the Jewish History Institute nearby (ask the museum caretaker for directions).


Other still surviving synagogues in Bucharest, apart from the ones below, include Credința Temple (48 Vasile Toneanu between Dudești and Vitan avenues, raised in 1926 in a mainly Modernist style and still in use for religious service), Bet Hamirdaș Synagogue (78 Moșilor Avenue, raised in 1812 and nowadays no longer serving the Jews), respectively Ajutorul Synagogue (6 Andrei Bârseanu, behind the phone company office at the crossing of Dudești and Vitan avenues, raised in 1906 and hosting a warehouse since 1986). GPS - N44 25.712 E26 06.475


The Great Synagogue was raised in 1845 by the Lech (Polish) Jews Community. Its actual looks are a result of the multiple changes and restorations over the years: it was repaired in 1865, redesigned in 1903 and 1909, repainted in Rococo style in 1936 by Ghershon Horowitz (coming from a painters’ family of Focșani), then it was restored once again in 1945, as it had been devastated by the extreme right Legionaries. It is one of the largest synagogues in the country and possibly the one with the most beautiful interior. For all these, it was included by the Romanian Academy on the list of the historic monuments, fact that probably saved it from the demolition that covered most of the area around in the late 1980s. It has been hosting, ever since 1992, an exhibition entitled the Memorial of Jewish Martyrs “Chief Rabbi Dr. Mozes Rosen” (open 10.00-13.00, closed on Saturday and Monday, ask the guard in the little kiosk opposite the gate for directions or, if there is nobody, ask in the above-mentioned Holy Union Temple for directions to get inside). Inside, ask for Mr. Aristide Streja, for a tour; there is no entrance charge, but donations are appreciated. Just like Mihai Vodă Church, this synagogue has been virtually fenced off with concrete buildings, so as to hide it from public sight.

GPS - N44 25.794 E26 06.508


The Choral Temple is the best known monument of Jewish heritage in Bucharest, generally open only for services, but you could try your luck with the guards at the gate. The temple was designed by Enderle and Freiwald, inspired by Ludwig von Förster which was drawing the plans for the Leopoldstadt-Tempelgasse built in Vienna in 1855-1858. Being plundered by the Legionaries, the building was refurbished in 1945. The building has contra-forts and small towers in the corners, while the rosettes existing on the front facade nicely process cruciform concepts, also existing in the model of Vienna. In front of the monumental building there is a monument of the Holocaust, a great Menora that well balances the small yard. There are services weekly on Fridays (the hour changes), as well as on Saturdays at 08.30 and 18.00. GPS - N44 25.846 E26 06.380


Yeshua Tova Synagogue was built in 1827, also being called "Podul Mogoșoaiei" (as a reference to Calea Victoriei Avenue it lay close to). This is the oldest synagogue in the city still in service. It was modified later, being added the facade along the street, which follows the monumental triptic concept. The synagogue has thrones placed to the sides of the Chivot, meant for important guests. On the street facade, it bears a relief depicting the ten commandments. It can host 300 people inside and it is only open when there is service inside. GPS - N44 26.664 E26 05.837
 

9 ianuarie 2010

 
 
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