Built from scrap North of the town (at the time) in the first part of the 20th century, the Aviatorilor had the advantage of providing enough space for various, sometimes extensive, properties of the rich and famous. A wealthy landlord family of the 19th century (the Filipescus, on the land of which part of district was to develop), army officials (such as General Alexandru Candiano Popescu), major industrialist figures of the interwar period (such as Max Auschnitt), art collectors and critics (such as Krikor Zambaccian), four members of the royal family, foreign diplomats and royal figures (such as Polish Prince Jan Korybut Woroniecki and his wife, Adina Woroniecka), King Carol the Second’s mistress (Elena Lupescu), the first Communist regime Prime Minister (Petru Groza), a Communist president (Nicolae Ceaușescu), one of the post-1989 Prime Minister (Adrian Năstase) and one of the richest, yet controversial figures of contemporary Romania (George ‘Gigi’ Becali), all have chosen this district for their residence or office. The same district hosts a plethora of embassies and diplomatic residences, as well as a few museums set in period houses.
This is where grand Italianate properties with orderly flower gardens stand next to imposing Neo-Romanian villas and smaller scale Modernist houses. It is also the place where, while walking down a street with such impressive buildings, one all of a sudden pops into a house boasting an excellent Wallachian porch supported by carved wood pillars or the Balkan ‘kula’ approach. And, odds up, a small scale office building in the same district will stir memories of Barcelona with its Gaudí inspired project. This is one of the longer walks and it can turn even longer if you add in a traditionally Romanian lazy stroll (sic!) through Bucharest’s largest park, the Herăstrău, or a visit to the Village Museum, equally stirring all laziness you’ve got deep inside you and have managed to ignore so far. But no more.
What to see: impressive period villas set in different styles, notable interwar monuments (among of Bucharest’s possibly finest Modernist statue), the city’s largest park and last - but not least - pieces of the excellent Ion Mincu (and his apprentices’) architecture.
Having a bite: The area hosts fine expensive dining and drinking venues, but also a good selection of reasonable places (especially heading West of it, along the Ion Mihalache). Of the former, I would recommend the Zafferano along the Popa Savu, towards the end of the walk (with its excellent lamb with basil and penne, or the sweet Zuppa Zafferano), while of the latter - the simple, no frills Beirut (you’ve got it, Lebanese) along the Nicolae Racotă, just off Clucerului Street, West of the Arch of Triumph; somewhere in between, not necessarily for the food, but for the building there is the Casa Doina, architecture detail pictured here and featuring mostly Romanian cuisine. Herăstrău Park hosts Bucharest’s Hard Rock Cafe, several typically overpriced restaurants and a handful of summer terraces some of which sell mici, but I am not very keen on them. Pastry, covrigi and confectionery shops line the Ion Mihalache West of the district this walk is about. Of these, pastry shops around the Piața 1 Mai (the Ion Mihalache - Ion Mincu crossing), Liliana Confectionery Shop at the Ion Mihalache - Turda crossing (just North of it along the former, at 115-117 Ion Mihalache, well-known among locals for its in house made whipped cream) or Victoria Confectionery Shop just off the Piața Domenii, along the same Ion Mihalache upon its crossing with the Alexandru Constantinescu stand out. Off the walk (a 5 minute bus #300 ride from the Alexandru Constantinescu - Ion Mihalache crossing), I cannot but mention the Gerard locale at along the Ion Mihalache just before its ending in the Calea Griviței; go there for some steamy mici, mustard and beer at sidewalk standing tables, next to taxi drivers, construction workers, well-to-do mid aged folks. Sidewalk shawarma places are located at the above-mentioned Piața 1 Mai, Piața Domenii and at Gerard’s. For a drink, you might go to one of the bars or cafeterias lining the Radu Beller, just off the Piața Dorobanților complete with two venues selling French pastry (the French Bakery and Paul’s). The Piața Dorobanților is conveniently located after one third of the walk.
Duration: this is one of the longer walks; allow 3 to 4 hours or more if you had rather also stroll across Herăstrău Park or visit the Village Museum.
The walk. Start at Piața Victoriei (En. Victoria Square), in its NE tip (taking the subway exit as a point of reference), with a glance at the Romanian Government Building. Follow Paris Street, lined with Neo-Romanian and Italianate properties. At the first crossing, take the Tirana to your left (NW) for a fine sample of excellently restored period property. Return to the Paris and continue along it until popping into the Piața Quito, centered by the 1937 Zorileanu Memorial. After having a look at the villas bordering the square (caution with that camera at embassies or other Gendarmerie-guarded properties), take the Praga to the South (right as you came) and then the Belgrad to the East (the first street to the left). Popping into the Londra, with the excellent Old Maps and Books Museum to your right, turn S (right) along it until it reaches the Washington. Turn E (left) and follow the latter until the next crossing, taking the Roma to the N (left); note the beautiful balcony of the imposing villa to your right as you do so. Upon the Roma’s crossing the Haga, turn E (left), reach the Paris again and turn NE (right) along it until it pops into the Piața Dorobanți. Note: this stretch can (and should) allow for more wandering around; I have tried to get here the most interesting streets and properties, but a leisure, no route walk is recommended.
Go around the small park to your left and take the Andrei Mureșanu to the West (left) noting the interesting Modernist property that used to host an Italian restaurant at number 15 as well as the
Victor Babeș House at number 14A (approximately across the street). Following the same street to the West, you can find, at number 8
a brick facade house with an interesting word-of-mouth story in all its right: following an U.S. tournament, Năstase supposedly called someone in Bucharest and, aware his phone calls were taped by the Securitate agents, told his acquaintance he no longer wanted to return to Romania, as the Americans had made him a solid offer, nice house and plenty of cash included. He did return however and, upon his landing in Bucharest, a black Securitate car took him across this leafy neighbourhood (where most properties belonging to the rich and famous before WW2 had been confiscated and others were ‘donated’), and he was shown houses he could get; he picked this one and his it still is.
Then turn North along the Émile Zola which soon pops in the Strada Muzeul Zambaccian, with the Zambaccian House hosting the fine museum immediately appearing ahead of you. Take your time to wander a bit Westwards (left as you came) along this street, as it is bordered by a few fine villas, of which a beautiful Italianate one, a reminder of the importance Italian influence architecture had between the two World Wars (also due to the strong ties between the two countries in the 1930 and early 1940s, Axis friendly to say the least). Return Eastwards along the Strada Muzeul Zambaccian until it reaches the Calea Dorobanților. Cross the latter and follow it to the NW (left as you came). Take the Grigore Nicolae, the first street off the Calea Dorobanților to the E (right); it immediately pops into a small park. Follow the Iuliu Tetrat to the N (your left); at the first right (the Jean Texier), turn E (right) and then left along the Gheorghe Mărășoiu. It’s then left along the Teheran (W) and right (NW) along the Pictor Iscovescu which joins the Rosenthal in the place where a fine Modernist structure lies. Upon reaching the Primăverii, you can go on, still North (straight on as you came), along one of the few cobblestone streets here: the Herăstrău or the Heleșteului. The streets North of the Primăverii are generally bordered by more modest, similar (sometimes even identical) villas if compared to the grand projects you have passed by.
Go W to the Piața Charles de Gaulle and you have an option of walking for a shorter or longer while through Herăstrău Park. Past President Charles de Gaulle’s statue, do not miss the
Caryatid Alley (Ro. Aleea Cariatidelor), the main entrance to the park which is bordered by statues of young women dressed in traditional outfits. There are 20 statues (10 on each side of the alley) of young peasant women from Muscel and Mehedinți areas (South of the Carpathians) holding clay pitchers on their heads and holding their hands in an alternatively different position. The pillars towards Charles de Gaulle Square bear the city blazons made of bronze: the 1879 and actual ones. The monument was initially raised by Sculptor Constantin Baraschi in 1939, but it was completely destroyed by the Communists in 1950 and it was rebuilt by Sculptor Ionel Stoicescu in 2005. A bit farther in the park (before the stairs going down to the lake shore, right in the middle of the main alley, between ornamental bushes) there is the Beauty, initially part of
the Giants’ statuary group (the Giants lie in the initial place, in Carol I Park). Your park walk can then take you to the left upon reaching the park (W), with an option of 1. exiting to the W to the Arch of Triumph, 2. of visiting the open air
Village Museum, 3. having a rock vibe night at Hard Rock Cafe, 4. taking a rowing boat in summer, 5. having an early morning jog or 6. just a stroll around the lake (for the latter allow 30-45 minutes ending in the same spot).
Back in Piața Charles de Gaulle, get on the Southern sidewalk of the Constantin Prezan and walk on to the West along it. Take the first street to the South (left), the Popa Savu. Then turn immediately W (right) along the Uruguay and follow it past a fine Italianate villa and a cluster of 4 storey apartment buildings raised in the 1970s, until it reaches the Kiseleff. Take a short detour to your right (N) along the Kiseleff, to see the Arch of Triumph set to replace the initial wooden structure welcoming the Romanian Army at the end of WW1. Then follow the Kiseleff South (back towards the city centre); at number 47 do not miss the Nicolae Titulescu House. The avenue stands bordered by massive, different style villas. Ironically, the residence of the US Ambassador and the electric wire - topped fence surrounded Russian Embassy lie almost across the street from one another. Just before the Ion Mincu crossing note the superb, former
Candiano Popescu House, an extensive boyar property set in Neo-Romanian style which hosted the Royal family until the Communists took over. It is then worth following one of the streets that run in parallel with the Kiseleff to the West, the Barbu Delavrancea or Petőfi Sándor, for more fine samples of residential architecture, mostly set in Neo-Romanian style.
Back at the Kiseleff - Ion Mincu crossing, note the fine
Woroniecka Palace to your right (W) and then turn left (E) along the Ion Mincu and note the fine Casa Doina Restaurant, designed by Ion Mincu, then take the Gheorghe Brătianu to the North (left). Note the 1927
Ionescu Villa, a castle tower-like property at number 26, with its fine tile work bearing flower patterns; it comes complete with a donjon, crenels and gargoyle. Take a right (E) along the Burcuș for Neo-Romanian style villas some of which (the one at number 16 for instance) bear fine Art Deco style patterns on doors and windows. Take a right (E) along the Docenților and continue along the Ioan Cantacuzino. Upon its crossing with the Emanoil Porumbaru, with a great sample of villa featuring a carved wood column-supported, Wallachian style porch on the first floor, turn right (S) along the Emanoil Porumbaru. At number 25A there is an office building reminding one of the Catalan Modernism and Antoni Gaudí. At number 12 there is another sample of carved wood column-supported verandah, unfortunately enclosed with window panels. Upon Emanoil Porumbaru Street’s popping into the Ion Mincu, note the villa to your left and the fresco above the stairs.
Go on along the Ion Mincu to your left (E) and take the Popa Savu to the left (N). At number 7 note the Neo-Romanian style villa hosting Carmello Restaurant, with fine carved stone columns. Follow the street on, passing by the small, pleasant property hosting Zafferano Restaurant (at number 29), until it meets the Ioan Cantacuzino. On the crossing there is Arcade Restaurant set behind a pleasant terrace. The ground floor dining area is worth exploring with fine Byzantine columns; the restaurant was closed for restoration in late January 2012. Turn right (E) along the Ioan Cantacuzino until it pops into the Aviatorilor and follow the latter to the right (S). A 5 minute walk will have you at Piața Aviatorilor, centered by the Monumentul Eroilor Aerului, one of the most notable interwar statues in the city. Cross the Bulevardul Aviatorilor and follow it to the South on its Eastern (left as you go) sidewalk. Two fine properties line it as you go: the
Filipescu - Brâncoveanu House set in the middle of a vast garden, and the gold decoration - plated
Manu - Auschnitt House, more like a palace with a imposing entrance. Continue along the Aviatorilor and you will soon get to Piața Victoriei, where you started.You can end the walk with a visit to
the Village Museum or
Antipa Natural History Museum. Alternatively, should you still have the strength for it, you could continue South along the
Calea Victoriei lined with period properties, towards the city centre. Otherwise the Piața Victoriei comes complete with a subway station providing quick access towards the central Piața Universității or Piața Unirii.
Click here for an album of pictures shot along this walk, with their respective GPS coordinates; I have arranged them in the sequence mentioned in the walk description above.
Aviatorilor District. This part of Bucharest was not part of town until the 19th century. The emerging point of the future district, the actual Kiseleff Avenue was drawn in 1832. As it lay North of the actual Calea Victoriei (kown as the Podul Mogoșoaiei at the time), it was initially called the ‘Aleea cea mare, între Capul Podului Mogoșoaiei și Dumbrava Bănesei’ (En. ‘The wide street between the end of the Podul Mogoșoaiei and the Dumbrava Bănesei’); the ‘Capul Podului (Mogoșoaiei)’ was approximately the actual Piața Victoriei. Getting the name of the leader of the Russian administration in Wallachia between 1829 and 1834 (Pavel Dmitrievich Kisseliov), its name would change to Kiseleff Avenue in 1843; this avenue would be the only major one in Bucharest that did not see any change of name during the often changes of regime, even when Romania was at war with Russia. Between 1844 and 1850, landscape Architect Carl Friedrich Wilhelm Meyer arranged a section of the street as a garden meant for walking and picnicking; that part, between the actual Ion Mincu and Monetăriei streets, has the same purpose nowadays, being called Kiseleff Park. The other major avenue in the district, the Aviatorilor was set in the second half of the 19th century; at the time it was called Jianu Avenue. Its Northern section (North of the actual Air Heroes’ Monument) crossed a park looking more like a real forest, popular picnicking place for local people: Bordei Park. The end of the 19th century saw the building of a new district made of elegant villas in the Southern section of the former park. It soon became one of the preferred places for the rich and famous at the time, with enough land for ambitious projects. The district was to develop greatly in the first part of the 20th century and especially in the interwar period. For instance, one of the great projects in the area was the Filipescu Villa Quarter, stretching between the Calea Dorobanților and the actual Aviatorilor Avenue; the project was developed after 1916.
Neo-Romanian properties can be found scattered across the quarter, as well as Modernist samples, however this is the place where Italianate villas abound. You will certainly notice the many street names belonging to various aviators; that happens because of the fact that several parts of the district have been set as memorials to air heroes (including two of the city’s major monuments, the Air Heroes Monument, respectively Mircea Zorileanu Memorial). The first leg of the walk goes across a beautiful area most of the streets of which bear names of different capital cities worldwide.
Zorileanu Memorial. Mircea Zorileanu was a Romanian aviation pioneer and a WW1 officer. The Royal Air Club of Romania had the monument raised in his memory in 1937; the monument was also meant to host his ashes. The monument was designed by Emil Ludovic Gové and it was raised of iron, bronze and stone. The structure shows a four eagle-supported globe, hence symbolizing the flight. A belt running around the globe has the zodiac symbols around it. Art Deco bas-reliefs on the four stone pillars holding the structure show eagles and flight - inspired figures. It lies in Piața Quito.
GPS - 50 m. NE along Paris Street of N44 27.405 E26 05.445
The Old Maps and Books House. The house was built by an Armenian in Italian Renaissance style, then it hosted a couple of embassies. It was turned into a museum during the rule of PM Adrian Năstase, and it hosts a collection of 750 maps donated by Adrian and Daniela Năstase. There are maps dating from 1500 to 1930, old engravings, sketches depicting the rural life in Romania. The cartographic works belong to famous authors: Hubert Jaillot (1693), Mercator, Ortelius, Ioan Honterius. The museum is the fourth in the world by the number of old maps. The collection is brilliantly exhibited, with well lit and taken advantage of items and with a righteous use of space (a welcome exception in this country, together with the National Art Museum and the Art Collections' Museum).
GPS - N44 27.418 E26 05.571 (39 Londra Str.)
The Triumph Arch was built as a memorial for the country’s unification and independence. Temporary structures were raised in 1848, 1859, 1878, 1906 and 1918, the latter to mark the winning Romanian Army’s return at the end of WW1. However, as it was built of wood and stucco, a new, long lasting monument was envisaged. King Ferdinand and Queen Maria’s coming to throne was an appropriate occasion and a reinforced concrete arch was built in 1921-1922. The short time available had only the structure built of lasting materials, while the bas-reliefs and statues it was adorned with were made of plaster and the whole monument depreciated by 1930. Architect Petre Antonescu was hired to draw the plans of a new arch, which was built between 1935 and 1936. The Southern facade holds two bronze medallions showing the portraits of Queen Maria and King Ferdinand. They replace the carved stone originals that were destroyed in the 1980s, as they represented a blaming piece of history for the Communist regime. The queen’s and king’s portraits have a Victory relief above them each. The Northern facade has medallions dedicated to Manhood, with a bearded warrior holding a sword, respectively Faith, with a young man holding a cross. They both have a Victory figure on top. The side facades show King Ferdinand’s speeches to the nation upon Romania’s joining WW1, respectively upon his coronation in Alba Iulia. Under the vault, the arch has stones carved with the name of battle sites during the war. At different occasions (but not regularly), the Arch is open to visitors, and a stairway leads to its terrace commanding great views around and allowing one to see how the avenues starting at the arch radiate around it. It lies in Piața Arcului de Triumf.
GPS - 100 m. N along the Kiseleff of N44 27.895 E26 04.756
The former Candiano - Popescu House, currently known as Kiseleff Palace. Initially this was a boyar house built for Candiano Popescu. It was a large property set in Wallachian style (the facade looked a bit similar to that of the still standing
Manuc Inn), with an extensive verandah set on the first floor. However it bore no resemblance to the current building. King Carol I bought it in 1909 and had it enlarged in 1910, turning it in a wonderful sample of Neo-Romanian style. The architect that drew the plans was Grigore Cerchez, the same person that made several changes to
Cotroceni Palace. It was used as one of the royal residences until Romania’s turning into a republic: Carol the Second when he was a prince (1914-1925), his wife Elena (1927-1930), Mihai the First before becoming King (1930-1940) and Princess Elisabeta lived here for a while. This is the only royal palace in Romania that had been a private residence before serving the royal family. The main entrance is topped by a balcony featuring simple, carved stone columns, while the two wings have similar balconies, but richly decorated with fine floral carvings. A special note goes to the arched window frames and their plasterwork employing similar floral patterns. It lies on 11 Kiseleff Avenue.
GPS - N44 27.601 E26 04.889
Princess Woroniecka’s Residence (also known as Woroniecki Palace). Following the plans of a trendy 1930 architect, Alexandru Zaharia (his real name was Zusman), the property was built in Venetian style with Florentine inserts for Princess Adina Woroniecka (1889-1975), being completed in 1940. Initially married to Romanian Prime Minister Take Ionescu (1919-1922), Adina Olmazu then was a lady in waiting to Queen Maria and eventually became Polish Prince Jan Korybut Woroniecki’s wife (1928); the price acted as Ambassador of Poland in France and then stepped back from diplomacy. Among the property’s highlights there are the Venetian colonnades holding richly decorated arcades, the Neo-Corinthian columns around the door; also note the family coat of arms above it. During the Communist regime the palace was typically confiscated, while the princess was allowed to live only in the former kitchen until she died in 1975. The palace then (1975-1978 and 1994-2003) hosted the art collection donated to the Romanian government by Painter Hrandt Avakian and his sister Beatrice Avakian in 1971. After 2003 the property remained unused and restoration works would be welcome. It lies on
19 Ion Mincu Street.
GPS - N44 27.549 E26 04.903
Casa Doina. Built in Neo-Romanian style, the restaurant opened in 1892, following Architect Ion Mincu’s plans. The plans had been meant by Mincu for the Romanian stand at the World Exhibition in Paris of 1889. As it lay in a green area popular with local people going for Sunday strolls and picnics, but also along one of the new (at the time) and fashionable avenues in the city, it was initially called the Bufetul de la Șosea (En. the Tavern by the Street). The decoration is of local inspiration, with carved wood columns and glazed tile work. The upper part of the facade has a frieze with Romanian vineyard names and a corniche showing arches and leaves inspired by the Brâncoveanu architecture. The property has a cellar, a main dining hall and a pleasant, large verandah on the first floor. In summer there is a relaxed terrace on the Kiseleff side of the building, complete with a fountain. The restaurant lies on 4 Kiseleff Avenue.
GPS - N44 27.550 E26 04.985
Monumentul Eroilor Aerului (En. Air Heroes’ Monument). The decision to build such a structure was taken in 1927 and the same year saw the opening of a project competition; 20 of the best proposals were exhibited at the Athenaeum and a public vote was held. The winning project belonged to Architect Lidia Kotzebue and Iosif Fekete. The monument was built between 1930 and 1935 and the actual 20 m. tall structure resulted. The top of the monument has a 5 m. tall, 5 ton sculpture depicting Icarus, the flying man, with open wings; the artist chose as reference the body of pugilist Joe Louis which was in Bucharest at the time. Three fallen aviators are shown at the base of the obelisk. Names of aviators died in flight between 1930 and 1935 are listed on 13 plaques. It lies on the crossing of Aviatorilor Avenue and Ion Mincu Street.
GPS - N44 27.570 E26 05.147
Victor Babeș House. The author of the first Bacteriology study worldwide, Victor Babeș was born in Vienna and did most of his Medicine studies in Budapest and Vienna, going through specialization courses in Munich, Heidelberg, Strasbourg, Paris and Berlin. He worked in Budapest, Paris (in Louis Pasteur's laboratory) and Berlin. The Romanian Government of the time then called him to Bucharest, where he lay the foundations of the first Pathology and Bacteriology Institute in Romania, also leading the local Pathologic Anatomy and Bacteriology Faculty. Following his coming to Bucharest and until his death, Babeș lived in an apartment within the very institute he had founded, so as to be closer to his work.
His son, Mircea and his daughter-in-law, Sofia, had this house built in Neo-Romanian style in 1929, three years after the death of Victor Babeș (which occurred following a stroke while he was working on the microscope that is exhibited in the house). They meant the house as both a living space and a memorial to Victor Babeș, so that they brought there personal, scientific and decoration items that had belonged to the latter. Among these, there is a copy of Victor's Bacteriology study, his self-designed desk and a few artifacts among which a fine Aivazovsky depicting an Istanbul sunset. In 1956, Mircea learnt that the Communist regime intended to confiscate former aristocracy (he had been a diplomat before WW2) property, so he decided to donate the ground floor together with the memorial he had meant for his father, to the City Hall, turning it into a museum he and his wife were to be the curators living upstairs, in their own house. Following his and later his wife's death in 1986, the whole house was converted into the museum.
One can visit the museum usually all alone (the property sees very few visitors, usually Medicine students), in the company of a knowledgeable, very friendly old curator eager to also show one other fine houses across the beautiful neighborhood. The thing to appreciate even more than Victor Babeș’s personality - a Vienna and Berlin-shaped, tough one in all its rightfulness, which brought him in often conflict with charismatic Ion Cantacuzino, the founder of the local school of Immunology and Pathology, it needs be said - is the experience of visiting the house which tells the tale of many people and similar properties during a share of Romania’s history. The house lies on 14A Andrei Mureșanu, at an enchanting 10 minute walk from Piața Victoriei subway station. GPS - N44 46.00774 E26 09.13216
Zambaccian House. Krikor Zambaccian (1889 - 1962), Armenian business man, gathered art objects for four decades and placed it in this especially built house. The house was built in the 1930s and it was expanded in 1957. In 1946 the owner donated it to the government: 165 paintings, 71 graphics, 40 sculptures and 16 pieces of furniture. One can admire here an impressive collection, including the only Cezanne in Romania, as well as paintings by Luchian, Tonitza and Pallady.
It lies on Str. Muzeul Zambaccian nr. 21A (close to Dorobanți Square, at a 10 minute walk from Aviatorilor subway station), website here and coordinates at GPS - N44 27.654 E26 05.461.
Filipescu - Brâncoveanu House. One of the rich landlords of his time, Alexandru Filipescu - Vulpache built the house in 1916. It was meant to replace the older Ion Filipescu-Vulpe House. The house was built between 1908 and 1915, following Roger Bolomey’s plans. It lies in the largest private park in the city, surrounded by old trees; the park was arranged at the time by a Belgian landscape architect. Alexandru Filipescu died the same year when the house was completed and the property was inherited by Constantin Basarab Brâncoveanu, another rich landlord and Alexandru Filipescu’s cousin. Constantin Brâncoveanu made a few loans backed with the property in the 1930s; as he could not return the loan in time, the house and the adjacent park were confiscated and eventually bought over by the City Hall; it is supposedly the villa bought by King Carol the Second for his mistress Elena Lupescu in 1930. It nowadays hosts the PDL (En. the Democrat - Liberal Party), one of the main political parties in Romania. The Neo-Romanian style house features unplastered brick walls, an archway both on the ground first floor and is topped by a square tower opposite Aviatorilor Avenue. On the same property there are two smaller houses, greenhouses, a guardian cottage and a fountain. It lies on 1 Aleea Modrogan, close to the Piața Victoriei.
Manu - Auschnitt House. Nicknamed at the time of its completion as ‘la maison la plus superbe dans le voisinage’, the house or rather palace was built by Magistrate Iancu Manu, following Grigore Cerchez’s plans. It was set in Louis 14 style and inspired closely by Biron Hotel (currently hosting Rodin Museum) in Paris. The story has it that in 1930, upon his return to the throne, King Carol the Second intended to host Elena Lupescu, his mistress in the house but eventually gave up and bought another villa in the neighbourhood (an unconfirmed story has it that he bought the Filipescu - Brâncoveanu House). Major industrialist and Elena Lupescu’s financial adviser Max Auschnitt (with over 16,000 employees and a 1 billion lei capital at the time) bought the house in 1932, turning it into a venue for parties. Auschnitt left the country in 1946 and the house was then confiscated by the Communist regime (1948) and hosted Prime Minister Petru Groza, then the Embassy of Argentina. After 1989 the house was returned to Auschnitt Family that inherited it and in 2006 it was bought over by a controversial, rich real estate player and politician, George (commonly known as Gigi) Becali which had it restored; the building cost Becali 7 million Euros and the restoration works another 1.5 million. The over 20 rooms were decorated in period style, with 24 carat gold-plated walls, tassel curtains, fluffy carpets, large scale chandeliers.
The result came complete with rather overdone gold-plated plaster decorations on the facade, an impressive entrance and opulent, kitschy interiors. A self-claimed religious figure, Gigi Becali completed the interiors with larger than life Biblical scene paintings and icons, while he planted a gold-plated crucified Jesus in the front yard. Architectural lights emphasize the house at night, but there is a glitz there too, as they change colour. The property has various purposes nowadays, such as Becali’s office, his party’s headquarters (Partidul Noua Generație, En. the New Generation) and a press conference venue for Steaua Football Club where Becali used to be the major shareholder but transferred most of his shares to his nephews facing corruption charges. It lies on 1-3 Aleea Alexandru, just off Piața Victoriei along Aviatorilor Avenue; it lies behind a tall fence with an imposing gate.
Click here for an album of pictures shot along this walk, with their respective GPS coordinates; I have arranged them in the sequence mentioned in the walk description above.