Until mid 19th century, Oriental style caravanserais were the norm for accommodating people that transited the city. Most of them were made of a 2 storey structure that surrounded a central yard where horses, carts and cattle were hosted. The ground floor was made of small shops, while the upper floor consisted of accommodation quarters. The most important inns were centered by a church. Of these structures, 5 are still standing in Bucharest, two of which are in a very bad state of decay.

Hanul lui Manuc. Across the street from Curtea Veche Church there is Hanul lui Manuc (Manuc’s Inn, at the end of Franceză Street), the only typical Turkish caravanserai which has survived in Bucharest with its original purpose. Manuc Bei, an important merchant of the time, raised, in the first decade of the 19th century, this famous inn on an area that had used to belong to the Princely Court. The building has one floor and a column way on the inside. In 1812 the peace agreement between Russia and Turkey was signed here. Nowadays the inn still serves for its original purpose, hosting a small hotel, a restaurant, a wine cellar and several bars along the first floor column way. The restaurants (a Romanian and a Lebanese one), respectively the cafeterias (one of which has a beautiful terrace overlooking the patio) have been reopened and are a pleasant place to drop by in the evening for the atmosphere, while the hotel is still under restoration. GPS - N44 25.803 E26 06.136

On Unirea Square side of the building, there are a couple of bars, of which the largest and possibly most popular is the Cafeneaua Bucureștiului d'Altădat'. Created by a company that started in Brașov with a similar venue, this place has become increasingly popular because of its prime location. I for one do not like it. Service is slow and the place is (very) smoky. The terrace provides a great opportunity of watching some of the city’s “finest” traffic, or of listening to the alarms of dozens of cars that surround the tables. As for the food, it could do better - on the traditional side that is.

Gabroveni Inn. It was built by King Constantin Mavrocordat in 1739-1740: a square building with small shops all around. These shops could only be used by foreign merchants, during their business in Bucharest. Later on it became the preferred place for merchants coming from Gabrovo (nowadays Bulgaria), hence its name. The caravanserai reached its glory between 1825 and 1850, when it was one of the most important inns in the city, hosting famous merchants and their products. It burnt down a few times, but it was always restored, and after 1900 it was turned in "Gabroveni-Universal Hotel". It has meanwhile gone through a massive restoration process, as the City Hall intends turn it into a Cultural Centre of Bucharest which will host various events dedicated to the city. One can see it from both sides, from Lipscani Street (close to its crossing with Brătianu Avenue), or from Gabroveni Street (near its crossing with Pasajul Francez, across the street from Hanul Hangiței Restaurant).

GPS - N44 25.869 E26 06.146

Hanul cu Tei (The Lindentree Inn). On Lipscani Street at number 63, there is a passage secured with an iron gate: there is Hanul cu Tei (The Linden Tree Inn), built in 1883, the only caravanserai in the city that preserved its original shape. The inn has another entrance from Blănari Street, above which one can still admire the seal of the two people that had it built. Together with buildings on Șelari and Soarelui streets, the inn provides a good introduction to the Wallachian glass covered facade (which can still be admired in Bucharest, Craiova and a few other cities). The inn was turned in the 1970s into a bunch of interesting antique and art shops. Especially the painting shops are interesting, while the whole inner yard, that used to provide a welcome break from the city bustle outside, has nowadays been turned in an unwelcome, fancy cafe, but the contrasts it is all about nowadays are captivating. GPS - N44 25.907 E26 06.128

Solacoglu Inn. This still surviving caravanserai was built around 1860 by blending the Wallachian style with Western influences. This is the first collective house in the city, as it hosted 4 families in 4 apartments, featuring a cellar, a ground floor and a first floor. It was first called a "han" (En. inn) and later on a "maison de rapport" (brothel). Nowadays it belongs to the City Hall and, even though it was included in the National Restoration Program in 1997, nothing has happened since. The inheritors of Solacoglu family are still trying to get back the building in court, while until a little while ago it was still in use as a, you've got it, cheap and filthy brothel. Nowadays they seem to have closed it down / sealed it off and I hope they will restore it before it crumbles down.

It lies on 132-134 Calea Moșilor (close to its crossing with Paleologu Street).

GPS - N44 26.185 E26 06.696

Hanul Evreilor / Jews’ Inn. A little farther NE from the former Bet Hamidraș Synagogue, along the Calea Moșilor, there is a line of buildings: first there is the 1867 Hristo Georgiev House (set by a Bulgarian merchant) and right after it, the building with arched patterns above the windows, there is what still stands of the former Jews’ Inn set in the 18th century. As points of reference, the ground floor of the former inn hosts a naturist shop with a purple facade, a mountaineering gear shop, a florist and another shop selling plastic window frames. Find more on the Jewish heritage in Bucharest in the dedicated chapter, here.

GPS - N44 25.937 E26 06.366