Many of the interesting places in Bucharest are hidden. It maybe happens as what one sees is not what one gets in countries like Romania. But then, this makes one’s day more interesting.

Dărvari Convent. Located in a quiet garden off a street that splits from the Maria Rosetti (some 10 minutes walking from Scala Cinema on Gheorghe Magheru Avenue), Schitul Dărvari (Dărvari Convent) is rarely visited by others than the faithful going for the mass. With exquisite carved stone decoration elements (such as columns, window frames and door portals), the convent is quiet and one can spend hours simply looking at the faithful praying or listening to the Orthodox chants. Without being a religious person, I like this place very much because it has a human touch, as opposed to big cathedrals and monumental churches which chose to impose themselves on the mortal, rather than simply talking to him. But let us go to facts.

Mihalache Dărvari built a small church near Icoana Garden in 1834; it was meant for the use of the family and it had a few cells around it. In 1869, monks passing through Bucharest began to be hosted at the convent, and they held the mass according to the rites at Mount Athos. It was restored in 1894 and its structure was changed in 1933-1934, when a fresco painted by Iosif Kebler was added. In 1959 the monks were sent away by the Communist regime (to Cernica Monastery and Bucium Convent), the convent was transformed in a church affiliated to nearby Icoana Church and it was re-opened de facto in 1996. The convent hosted, in the 1990s, cultural and religious debates where important figures of the Romanian scene participated. The convent church dates in its actual shape since 1933-1934. It was built in Wallachian style. The church was built in a cross shape  and was made of brick walls. There are nowadays 7 monks living at Dărvari Convent. It lies on 3 Schitul Dărvari, http://www.schituldarvari.ro. GPS - N44 26.573 E26 06.424

Doamnei Church. Maria Doamna, Prince Șerban Vodă's second wife, built the church on the site of a former wooden church (probably dating from the 15th century), in 1683. The frescoes were done by Master Constantinos (which also worked at the MOnastery of Cozia, on Olt Valley) and Master Ioan; their frescoes can once again be seen, after subsequent layers of paint were cleared off by restorers. Initially the church was meant for the use of the prince and of his wife, but after the lady died granted it to Cotroceni Monastery, and had it serviced by Greek monks. Inside there is a red silk epitaph, sewn in gold thread by Maria Doamna, depicting the portraits of her, her husband and their children. As the church was affected by earthquakes, it was repaired in 1869 and the last restoration took place in 2000. During the communist rule, the church was hidden from street sight, as it was fenced off by a concrete apartment building. Access is nowadays possible either along a backside street breaking off from Doamnei Street, or through a passage under this concrete building, straight from Calea Victoriei (very close to the crossing of the latter with Regina Elisabeta Avenue, the entrance / passage lies right next to the Pizza Hut). GPS - N44 26.071 E26 05.936

Domnița Bălașa Church. Domnița Bălașa Church was built in Neo-Romanian style in 1881-1888, replacing the original one built by Constantin Brâncoveanu’s daughter (Lady Bălașa, hence the name of the church) in 1751, because it almost collapsed during the 1838 earthquake. During the first half of the 20th century the church used to be the host for Bucharest’s high society. The church was built of apparent brick layers that alternate with plaster layers imitating stone. The church yard hosts the statue of Lady Bălașa, made by Karl Storck in 1881 (it might be an introduction leading one to Storck House, see my article on that), while her grave lies inside. Next to the church entrance there is a small monument in shape of a church; it is there that the original 1744 chapel lay.

Looking at the Palace of Justice, turn left towards Unirea Square and take the first street to the right, right after the palace. The church lies to your left, in a fir tree garden. GPS - N44 25.699 E26 06.006

Radu Vodă Monastery. Radu Vodă Monastery was built by Alexandru the 2nd Mircea (1568-1577) and accomplished by his son, being also surrounded by princiary houses. In 1595 it was fortified by Sinan Pașa, then destroyed by Turks upon their retreat, rebuilt in 1616 and developed in the time of Constantin Brâncoveanu, damaged during a couple of earthquakes, restored afterwards in Neo-Gothic style, hidden from public sight by being surrounded by concrete buildings in the 1980s. Nowadays it provides an oasis on its secluded hill, right in the city centre. Take Cantemir Avenue from Unirea Square to the South and then the first street to the left after the first concrete block.

To get there: Go along Radu Vodă Street for about 10 minutes and the monastery lies on top of a small hill, among the trees. Access is usually provided from the other side, not through the main gate. GPS - N44 25.438 E26 06.461

Bucur Church. The story goes that Bucur the Shepherd (the same character that founded the city according to the legend) built a wooden church on a small hill overlooking River Dâmbovița. While that is true or not, fact is that in 1416 Wallachian Prince Mircea I Basarab built a stone church on the site of a wooden one to evoke the dead in his army during the Giurgiu battle with the Turks; a small graveyard was set next to it, hosting the corpses of dead soldiers. Sinan Pașa-led Turks invaded and set the church on fire in 1595. It was not rebuilt until the 17th century, when an Abbot Atanasie at the nearby Radu Vodă Monastery had it redone and used as chapel for the monastery graveyard. It again decayed in time and, after a period of closure, it was restored in 1938. The structure is rather simple, following a traditional pattern, while the wood shingle-covered roof creates a fine contrast with the apartment concrete building next to it.

Antim Monastery. This is possibly the finest of the bunch. The concrete buildings alongside Unirii Avenue and around Unirii Square hide away from public sight a few remnants of what normal Bucharest once meant. Going on twisted streets and through narrow passages between tall concrete buildings, one can still visit some of them and read their sad stories. A beautiful settlement is Antim Monastery, raised in 1713-1715 by Antim Ivireanu, Mitropolite of Wallachia. The monastery was raised on a site where an older, 17th century wooden church had existed. Ivireanu also endowed the monastery with a Greek and Romanian printer. Acting against the Ottoman rule, he was killed in 1716 at Voyevode Constantin Mavrocordat's order. He left all his fortune to the monastery, meant for the poor and helpless. Tradition has it that the exquisite wooden door of the church was carved by Antim Ivireanu himself. Several features, including the Neo-Gothic rosetta, were added during the 1860 restoration led by Architect Schlater. The monastery also hosts to the left the Synodical Library (translated with 14 meters at President Ceaușescu’s order, in 1985), a great piece of Brâncoveanu style architecture with floral decoration under the roof. Use the monastery as a starting point a walk along old streets towards Regina Maria Avenue (George Georgescu, Justiției, Poiana Florilor streets are recommendable), even though some of the buildings there lie in a bad state.

To get there, as you walk from the Palace of the Parliament to Unirea Square, take the first street to the right, through the first break in the concrete blocks. GPS - N44 25.569 E26 05.613