This part of town has an extraordinary agglomeration of diverse style houses. It is mostly about single family properties, places that have their own story in Bucharest. Both in villages and in towns, traditionally speaking, the single family property used to be the norm in Romania and it was only at major crossroads where merchants buzzed around that 2-3 storey properties were set. The structures were initially simpler, they then got more decorative, especially with Oriental patterns or elements belonging to the local Brâncoveanu art. The single family property often raised from a garden with lilac, magnolia, walnut trees or various decorative bushes, as well as a plethora of flowers grew. This allowed for cooler lazy afternoons in the heat of summer, but it also underlined the strong connection between Romanians and the nature.

As the Western influence got ever stronger in the second half of the 18th century, old houses were rebuilt and new ones were raised in European styles embraced by the young generation: Neo-Classical, Neo-Gothic, Eclectic, Art Nouveau and - to replace Brâncoveanu with a fresh, updated version, Neo-Romanian. The garden survived, even though it sometimes became smaller and got decorated with architectural or sculptural items, such as Byzantine columns, small fountains or statuettes. While apartment buildings did appear around 1900, that happened mostly along the newly drawn avenues and in the central part of town, allowing for residential districts to develop at their own pace. It is the case of this district, set around two streets that gather an important share of exquisite period properties: the Romulus and the Remus.

What to see: houses set around 1900, mostly in Neo-Classical and Eclectic style (especially South of Matei Basarab Street), but a few also in the interwar Modernist style (with an exquisite cluster of such structures around the Intrarea Iuliu Valaori). No palaces or such.

Having a bite: there are not too many options and definitely not exactly along these streets, but it is worth walking off to the Piața Traian for some fine pastry and covrigi from one of the few shops there, or past it to the relaxed Green Tea for a cuppa, some quiche or their delicious krantz cake.

Duration: this is a rather short 1 to 2 hour walk, according to the time you allow for wandering around.

Note: the walk can be combined with the Popa Soare - Mântuleasa District one, or it can be used as a connection between the two nowadays separate parts of the Jewish District.

The walk: start at the crossing of Unirea Avenue and Calea Traian; to get there, you can take bus #104 from either Piața Unirii or Piața Muncii. Alternatively, this point is a 15 minute walk from the Piața Unirii along the uninspiring Unirea Avenue with the gargantuan Palace of the Parliament always in sight. Follow the Calea Traian to the first street it crosses, just behind the concrete buildings: then take the Maximilian Popper to the left. To your left you will soon pass by two houses with fine, even though decaying Art Deco metal decorations. At the crossing ahead you have the option to take the Parfumului to the right for 50 m. to see a sample of beautiful (even though abandoned) Neo-Romanian style house with an excellent carved wood columns on the verandah (the third picture in the album below).

Then take the Romulus to the North and you will soon pass by a few beautiful properties, of which the first one at N44 25.707 E26 06.931 bears a beautiful, impressive verandah with a double set of stairs and sustained by four Corinthian columns. A few steps on, on your right, there is a large property set in a small garden, with the statue of Architect Paul Smărăndescu (one of the head developers of the Neo-Romanian style) on the street side. Set in Neo-Romanian style, the house has beautiful floral decorations under the roof and features the typical (for the style) arched wooden shelter above the main entrance. A bit farther on, at the crossing with the Ion Filibiliu, you will pass by a large, desolated, Neo-Classical property and just across the street from it there is a light blue, multi storey structure that deserves your attention for its Art Deco elements: note the main door and basement window decorations.

Go on along the Romulus and two properties on your right, just before meeting the Matei Basarab, will again attract the eye: the first one, at N44 25.809 E26 06.909, has a fine, intricate metal work entrance cover. The second one, just on the corner with Matei Basarab, is being carefully restored (early 2012); set in Neo-Classical style, with an elegant entrance bordered by two Corinthian columns and a long facade along the Matei Basarab. Take the Matei Basarab to the right and you will immediately notice an Eclectic style house to the right. With small columns sustaining the roof beams and an overdecorated facade complete with angels presenting laurel wreaths, it imposes itself on the next, single storey house on the same side of the street. You can continue for 3 minutes until noticing on the other side of the street the light yellow Marriage Office of District 3, a fine Belle Epoque building overshaded by trees; have a look at the main entrance door with its superb metalwork and at the window frame exactly above it, on the first floor.

Return the same way to the Romulus crossing and continue along the Romulus; not far away, to the right there is a house with a heterogeneous roof setting and a fine, continuous floral belt running all along the walls under it. Turn right along the Vasile Lucaciu and then left along the Remus; upon crossing the Iuliu Valaori, you will notice a beautiful, single storey yellow house featuring a dwarf balcony; it lies at N44 25.949 E26 06.959. Take a right along the Iuliu Valaori Street and another right immediately along the Intrarea Iuliu Valaori: this is a cluster of Modernist structures with their simple outlines, large windows and functional excellence.

Return to Iuliu Valaori Street and follow it back all the way until it ends in Romulus Street; turn left along the latter and then right along the Udriște, then continue along the Ionescu Gion: to the right you will have a few imposing structures with well preserved floral decorations. Especially the one at N44 25.906 E26 06.820 is enchanting. Go on and the street emerges in Corneliu Coposu Avenue, with the possibility of following it to the left and getting to Piața Unirii in 5 minutes, or of going straight along the Dunărea Albastră and then the Hristo Botev, with some other fine buildings, eventually getting to Rosetti Square and University Square (a 10 minute walk from here).

Click here for an album of pictures shot along this walk, with their respective GPS coordinates; I have arranged them in the sequence mentioned in the walk description above.