Common sense has it there is an end to everything. But, like pretty much everything else, the individual is entitled to his / her own approach and understanding of common sense. And people are, well, different. Therefore, it is just natural that, while some think they can get closer to God by embracing ancestral traditions and religion, others think they can do so by keeping things as simple as possible. And then there are also those that, well, do not believe in God. Which does not make any of the three categories above any better or worse than the others. I am not going to start a debate here, but the two places below, while belonging together through the nature of things, might look worlds apart at the first glance. Being one of the second category of people myself, I have decided to put them both in the same article; in the end of the day, they even lie in the same part of town. Those having a problem with it are free to read something else. Liberum arbitrium, no offence meant. The two places? The most important cemetery in Bucharest and its historic crematory. The Bellu and the Cenușa (En. Ashes). The order is strictly alphabetical and I personally admire the beauty of them both in terms of art only.

The Bellu.

Religion is supreme business in Romania and, just like everywhere else, it caters to both prince and pauper. While I am no believer in any religion whatsoever, I shall always take a bow in respect to fine pieces of religious art. The ones in this article make it for some beautiful samples.

Up to the 19th century, Bucharestians used to bury their dead in small parish graveyards set around local churches; at the same time, a few cemeteries existed around the city. Historian Constantin Giurescu notes that Bellu Graveyard was founded before 1830, yet the official birthday of the site was in 1859. The graveyard was founded on a vast plot of land donated to the City Hall by Barbu Bellu in 1853; Minister of Culture, then Minister of Justice, Barbu Bellu was granted the title of Baron by Emperor Francisc Josef. A neighbouring plot of land, belonging to Văcărești Monastery, was also donated to the City Hall to complete the surface needed. The graveyard was founded at 1848 Revolutionary Constantin Rosetti’s initiative; the first person to have a tomb here was oddly Elena Rosetti, one of the founder’s children; her brother was to follow in 1861.

The central chapel was built following the design made by Architect Alexandru Orescu in 1853; it replaced Barbu Bellu’s old church set in the early 19th century. 1890 saw the chapel in a very bad state and it was rebuilt from scrap at the initiative of Emil Pake Protopopescu, the Bucharest mayor at the time. The new structure followed the design of the Carlsbad Cathedral. Following a law that banned the small parish graveyards set around local churches in Bucharest, the rich had their ancestors’ remains removed from old churches that used to exist on the site of the actual CEC Bank Headquarters (St. Ioan cel Mare Church) or of the Army Club (Sărindar Monastery), and set in Bellu Graveyard. The graveyard quickly developed, from 17 hectares in 1859, to 20 hectares in 1960 and 28 hectares nowadays. What is there to see here? Interesting funeral monuments, a quiet, yet heterogeneous congregation, processions, habits and a quiet flow where life and death mingle like nowhere else.

The main entrance, under a bell tower-topped gate, leads along a wide, bench-lined alley to the chapel where the funeral service is held. Side alleys create a grill pattern, making up square and rectangle plots locally called ‘figură’s. Figures are numbered in successive rows, starting from the left and going to the right while passing across the central alley. Plates designate various figures and there are also a few signposts of the street name type. Some of the most visited places are the Parcela scriitorilor (Writers’ Plot) and the Parcela actorilor (Actors’ Plot). As you enter, take the first alley to the right and you will soon find the Writers’ Plot; passing by Alexandru Macedonski’s tomb, you will then find many writers, including Poet Mihai Eminescu, at Figure 6. The Actors’ Plot lies somewhat symmetrically, in Figure 96; from the entrance, turn left and walk all the way to its end, then turn a few steps to the right. In the same area, do not miss Sculptor Dimitrie Paciurea’s tomb, with a column on which there sits an impassible chimera.

Of the many monuments I would recommend, there are Grigore Cantacuzino’s shrine, designed by Architect Ion Mincu (Figure 40), Dimitrie Ghika’s tomb designed by the same architect (Figure 41), Luigi Cazzavillan’s tomb designed by Alexandru Clavel (Figure 44), the impressive tomb of the Gheorghieff Family featuring a design done by Ion Mincu and bronze sculptures by Frederic Storck (Figure 47), Professor Radu Novian’s tomb by Milița Pătrașcu (Figure 56), Raffaello Romanelli’s ‘Umbrella Lady’ on the wall behind which there was once written ‘Cet animal de médecin m’a tuée’ (Figure 65), Gheorghe Cerchez’s tomb (Figure 66), Amira Family’s tomb done by Ion Jalea (Figure 79), Writer Emil Gârleanu’s tomb with a bronze bas-relief done by Cornel Medrea (Figure 83), Poet Panait Cerna’s tomb with a bronze bas-relief done by Frederic Storck (Figure 84), Aviator Alexandru Cojan’s tomb designed by Lidia Kotzebue, the author of the Air Heroes’ Monument in Aviatorilor District (Figure 95).

Allow a few hours’ relaxed walking; the visit here can be combined with a peek at the Sephardic Jewish Graveyard across the street. The best thing to do at the Bellu is to simply walk around without a certain plan or route in mind. Photography is officially banned, yet keeping a low profile, one can get by without trouble. Otherwise, contact the cemetery administration and try to get a permit; good luck! If looking for more data on the site or certain monuments, refer to Paul Filip’s in depth, excellent, ‘Panteonul Național’, a 2 tome album dedicated to Bellu Graveyard, complete with pictures and descriptions; if the bookstore stock is finished, check with the folks at Craiova’s recommended Anticariat.net. There is a map of the graveyard here, while at major alley crossings there are also some map boards of the different Figures. However, the absence of any sort of directions on those boards does not help; bring a printed map if looking for specific monuments, or ask one of the guards. Entrance is free and the chapel is open daily from 8 AM to 4 PM. To get to the Bellu, take the subway to Eroii Revoluției and the main entrance lies approximately across the street. Alternatively, tramway #1 (the one completing the loop around the city) passes in front of the main entrance. If hunger strikes after a long walk, there is a convenient pastry and covrigi shop next to the subway station entrance, across the street from the main gate of the graveyard.

The Cenușa. On the other side of Tineretului Park from the Bellu there is the city’s historic crematory. Designed by one of the top local architects of the time, Duiliu Marcu, it was built in Eclectic style featuring Byzantine, Syrian and Egyptian elements with obvious Art Deco patterns, between 1925 and 1934. The building was inspired by the style of Cantacuzino Family crypt in Bellu Cemetery. The building is of square shape, inspired by an ancient temple, and a tomb-like structure lies at every corner. The domed roof is topped by a stylized ash urn and features many Art Deco elements typical for the period when it was built. The stairway leading to the main entrance is bordered by two statues depicting the Grief and the Hope. Floral and mourning scene bas-reliefs lie on the sides of the main, carved wood door. It is said that the crematory was raised on the place of one of the entrances to Vlad the Impaler’s catacombs leading to the banks of the Dâmbovița.

Over time, about 60,000 corpses were incinerated there, despite the typical 'he who is not with me is against me' line of the Orthodox Church that declined all religious service to those deciding to be incinerated after death. The corpses of 43 people rioting against the Communist regime and shot dead in Timișoara between December 16 and 18, 1989 were brought here and incinerated, their ashes being afterwards thrown into a sewer. The building is no longer in use nowadays (the currently used one lies in Vitan-Bârzești District), but one can walk around if asking the guard on site. Their line is that indoors pictures are not allowed (provided they let you peek in), but outside pictures are allowed. One can take the subway to Tineretului stop to get there (from the subway station, walk up the Șerban Vodă for about 100 m. and the alley leading to it splits to the left / South). If coming from Bellu Graveyard (described above), take tramway #1 and get off at Adesgo, then walk on for 5 minutes, looking for the crematory alley splitting to the right (South).